SM Club de France
Buyers Guide Citroën SM
This section does not provide in-depth technical information, but merely gives you advice which aspects you should check before you buy an SM. It is always a good idea to get into the SM world first; become a club member, find out which specialists are good, and which are not. Do not have your new SM serviced by just any garage or shop. Regarding the Citroën SM, there are a number of general aspects to check.
Bring someone with you who knows about cars, preferably the SM.
Before you drive
- How long has the car you consider been 'idle'? Cars which are not used will deteriorate quicker than used, and serviced, cars.
You should be careful when you run the engine when it has not been used for a long time: please refer to “Before you bring her home”
- If the car has been idle for a long time, how was it stored. Dry? With enough fresh air circulating?
- Has the engine been overhauled? You need to see the bills!
- The primairy chain - located at the rear side of the engine - must be replaced every 50.000 km. If it has not been replaced, it may cost you 60.000 FRS when the engine will run into serious damage.
- If the SM is in the middle of being repaired or restored, make certain you have all the parts. Unfinished restorations can end in a nightmare for the next owner.
- Check the tires. They may be in a bad shape, especially if the car has not been used for some years.
- Be very careful if you can smell petrol; your (next) SM is not the first to catch fire!
- Always check the the engine oil, the LHM as well as the coolant level.
(to check the LHM level, get the SM in its highest position before you check)
- Do not presume anything important will be working, like the brakes.
- The steering needs much aquintance; be careful when you drive it after the owner has taken you for a small ride.
After you drive
- Documentation. Check the papers; does the serial number match between the car's document and the body? The number is under the hood quite visible at the right hand side of the engine. A well documented car, which shows its history and proofs its maintenance is a good start!
- Suspension. If you can drive the car but the suspension feels not 'soft', thus 'hard, you'll need new 'balls' in the suspension system.
- If their is a 'clicking noise' from underneath the bonnet every 15 seconds, or more often, and you hear the hydraulic pump activating itself all the time, the sphere which stores reserve-pressure is probably shot.
- Check the point where the front suspension is attached to the car.
- Rear mudguards (fenders) quite a lot of time are damaged, and repaired badly.
Check their condition. You won't find new ones. Check the thicknes of paint and what is all behind it, using a small magnet.
- Seal on the 'third door' doesn't seal that well. Water may have ingressed in the boot (trunk) of the car, starting corrosion. Lift the floormats and find out.
- The aluminium hood may be 'holed' (very small holes, sometimes covered by what's left of the paint.
- Check the condition of the upholstery. It's expensive to renew.
Before you bring her home
- The exhaust valves are hollow and filled with sodium salt for better cooling.
They may break, especially when the engine has not been running for a long period, due to corrosion. Nothing to diagnose up in front. Massive valves are available now.
- Especially for injection types - but not restricted to injection types - do check the condition of rubber hoses in the fuel system. Renew the filter, preventing any dirt from intruding into the injection system or carburetors.
If the car has been standing still fot a long time, do not drive it. Although it will cost you a fair sum of money, a damaged engine will cost you a fortune: have the engine checked first by a specialist, typically the valves. These should be replaced when corroded!
